Note: this post was re-posted from my old website, initially published in November 2016.
Many summers ago, I bought a juuhachi kippu that I used most during my travel to Hokkaido. However, as I returned to Sendai I realized I still have not used all of the pass. I had 2 more days to go and thought it was perfect for a one-day trip in Tohoku region. One day I went north to Hiraizumi and the other I went south to Aizu-Wakamatsu.
Aizu-Wakamatsu is a town in Fukushima prefecture that lies near Inawashiro Lake behind Bandai Highlands (磐梯高原). It is highly popular with local tourists as it is one of the best castle towns in Tohoku with a long samurai tradition. Aizu-Wakamatsu is one of the leading tourist destinations in Fukushima prefecture, which contributes to the prefecture’s revitalization after the tsunami hit the area in 2011.
I visited 4 places of highlight in Aizu-Wakamatsu, all reachable within a one-day trip. Refer to the Google Map below for the places for the cycling route:
- Tsurugajo (Tsuruga Castle)
- Oyakuen Garden
- Aizu samurai mansion
- Iimoriyama
The first thing I did when I reached the town via train was to look for access information. I found out there was a loop bus that goes around the town with a reasonably priced pass. However as I stumbled across a bicycle rental near the station, I decided to go by bicycle instead. And since the rental was cheap, I opted for the electric bicycle to make my journey around the town smoother.
Going from the station, I traveled through a street called ‘Dr. Noguchi Street’, which commemorates Hideyo Noguchi, a prominent Japanese scientist who found the cause of syphilis disease in 1911. Along the street, there is a small museum that tells his story, complete with his bronze statue. The actual memorial hall for him is located in his hometown Inawashiro.
As I am an avid fan of Japanese castles, of course, Tsurugajo (Tsuruga Castle) is my number one priority of things to see. I have been wanting to see the best castle in the Fukushima area with my own eyes ever since I learned about its existence back in 2015. And the place did not disappoint me at all. The castle is indeed huge and majestic. Located in the middle of the town and surrounded by moats, Tsurugajo stands tall amid the low-rise buildings around it.
Not only the castle is regarded as the strongest fortress in all of Tohoku, but it is the oldest one as well. Constructed in 1384 as Kurokawajo by Ashina Naomori, the castle received its current name in 1590 when Toyotomi Hideyoshi forces conquered the castle and renovated it. Later the reigning Tokugawa family gave the castle town to the Matsudaira clan to govern until it fell in the Boshin War during the Meiji Restoration.
Today the castle serves as the center of the city where various public events take place in the large square in front of the castle’s main entrance. Visitors could also find several tea houses that charge a small fee for an authentic tea ceremony experience. I enjoyed sitting on a bench eating soft cream while admiring the castle’s architectural beauty.
Satisfied with the castle, I moved on to my second destination: Oyakuen Garden. Given the name it means ‘medicinal herb garden’, but nowadays it is more known as a Japanese landscape garden. Indeed, the garden offers a pleasant stroll through passages sheltered by trees and occasionally rock formations or flowing water. I always adore Japanese gardens due to their elegance and tranquility.
Even if you are not really into gardens, I highly suggest you come here if you have time to spare in Aizu-Wakamatsu. It is a relaxing spot, away from the bustling major tourist attraction points. Coming here will refill your energy, and by the end of the visit, you will be ready for more walking around the town. Try the tea at the tea hose as well when you are at it.
My third destination was the Aizu samurai mansion. Not long ago I traveled to Kaminoyama and found several lower-ranked samurai houses. But those houses pale by comparison with the one in Aizu-Wakamatsu, for it belonged to an upper-ranked samurai family. This place served as the residence of the region’s ruling samurai clan, the most important figure in the town. It is not a mere house, but a legitimate large complex of residences that provides housing for the samurai, employees, and servants as well as quarters for guests.
I was astounded by the size of the mansion. It is huge, filled with dozens of rooms each adorning a name for its purpose. Inside each room, some mannequins portray the typical daily life or some important historical events. Visitors will be taken through a set course that encircles the mansion ground from the main building to the outlying structures such as the mill and former stable.
Out of the rather accurate scenes that portray the life of a high-class samurai, there was one scene that particularly stood out in my eyes as it sent a chill down my spine. If I was not mistaken it was the one that depicts a tragedy — a suicide act performed by the female members of the samurai family who thought their existences were such a hindrance to their husbands during the times of war.
I could not comprehend them taking their own lives believing them not being around would help the family. Such devotion might be foolish for us today, but be as it may it represents the way of thinking of women at the time.
My last destination in Aizu-Wakamatsu was Iimoriyama. From the samurai residence, it did not take long for me to reach there even though the road was a bit hilly, thanks to the electric bicycle. Once you reach the place, you will be greeted by a wide sloping street filled with shops right and left. To get to the top you could either take the normal stairs or get on the escalator — which is pretty interesting since I did not see many outside escalators.
Now, Iimoriyama, given the word yama (mountain) on it, you might think it is like a place perfect for hiking or a leisure stroll. Well, it is not. The place was the site of mass suicide committed by a group of young soldiers during the fall of the Tokugawa shogunate in 1867. It was a tale of tragedy in the purest form.
No less than 20 young boys who belonged to a military unit called Byakkotai (meaning White Tiger Corps) were mistaken in thinking Tsurugajo was engulfed in flames and that they had lost the battle. Grief-stricken and helpless, they committed seppuku in Iimoriyama for failing to protect the castle. Although their judgment was flawed, their devotion has since become well known and the small hill is commemorated as their grave site, a grim reminder of the restoration war.
Not so far from the grave site you would find 2 monuments from Japan’s ally during World War II, a very rare display of artifacts if you would ask me considering how strong Japanese people’s opinion nowadays towards world war.
When I ventured farther down the northern side of the hill I stumbled across a very unique building. Called Sazaedo Pagoda, this building looks exactly like a helter-skelter made from wood. The whole building is loop-sided like a spiral, and you can go inside the building through the spiral ramp to the top and down again. A small shrine is also in the vicinity right beside a steady river stream. This is just the perfect place to rest before heading back to the station to return the bicycle.
Aizu-Wakamatsu is a must-visit place if you have a strong penchant for history. Being a famous castle town, it carries the strong spirit of samurai even up until now and that is exactly part of the charm. You might even say that Aizu-Wakamatsu embodies the whole Fukushima prefecture in its lovely, organized neighborhood. Regardless, I would still recommend you to come, see the town, and experience all that it offers.
Useful Information:
Japan National Tourism Organization site about Aizu-Wakamatsu
Samurai City, Aizu-Wakamatsu information site
Aizu Samurai Mansion official site (Japanese)
